Monday, 16 February 2015

Si Phan Don - aka 'The Four Thousand Islands'.

Hi all,

This was our last stop in Laos and it was a good one! Si Phan Don lies at the very south of Laos. In fact, at the southern tip of the lower islands your looking at Cambodian river banks. 

To get there we headed back to Pakse and clambered in the back of a Songthaew (literally 'two-rows' in the back of a pick up truck). The three hour journey to 'Ban Nakasang', the little town on the mainland that ferries you to the islands, was one of the more uncomfortable journeys so far.

As if Gaia herself realised that we were in need of a morale boost, we were treated to this spectacle on our immediate arrival to the Mekong's banks:



Not a bad way to start in a new place!


This happy chappy took us across to the nearest island 'Don Det'. Don Det is the most popular of all the inhabited islands and has become a well-established backpacker hangout. Banana pancakes everywhere. As we arrived late, we stayed there for one night before heading to it's sister island 'Don Khon' in the morning.

Don Det and Don Khon are connected by a bridge made by the French during there time in the area. The two islands were the location for the only railway made by the French whilst in Asia. The railway served to bypass the multitude of waterfalls that skirt the islands by hoisting their boats out of the water at the southern tip of Don Khon and taking them to the top of Don Det, where they could continue up the Mekong.


Don Khon is a lot quieter than its neighbour, although a little more expensive. However, there's a lot to do on the island and it's a perfect location for exploring. Rather than walk there everyday anyway, we treated ourselves and got accommodation on the island!


On west side of the island there is a small beach that overlooks the craggy, island strewn Mekong. Indeed it's hard to get away from the Mekong, the area is constructed solely of islands surrounded by it. It was often easy to forget it was a river at all because it was so vast.



These young boys delighted in trying to play our flute and chasing after Jon in the river. Swimming in the water quickly reminds you of the fact it's a river, with a deceptively strong current in places.


No shortage of hammocks in Don Khon either!


Or coconuts!


The islands provided some of the most incredible sunsets we have ever seen.




There was a film crew on Don Khon for the entirety of our stay. They were shooting a film called 'River' that will be out later on in the year.


On one day we walked along the old railway track (now a dirt road) that runs through the middle of the island.



This is the view from on top of the old French port that looks over towards Cambodia. The port sits at the southern end of the old railway line.



More points to be won! We saw plenty of these wonderful pods hanging on large trees on our wanders. We took to calling them 'Green sausage trees'. If anyone can tell us what they really our there's a million points for grabs.


There were plenty of local animals to keep us company!


The north-west of the island is comprised of the turbulent section of Mekong waterfalls called 'Tat Somphamit'. There's a charge to get into the area in which you can view the falls. It's worth it just to see them but it's annoying that the money is going towards a bar and beach bungalows that no one will ever use because people will never repeatedly pay a premium to get into an area and have fun at the beach bar and bungalows.


Regardless, the falls were incredible. The sense of power you can feel standing close to the Mekong surging through a small stretch is pretty amazing. Walking down a 400m stretch you view new sections of the falls as you walk.



These falls, spewing forth from the small section of forest, were particularly beautiful.



On our last day on the island, Eve rented a bicycle and explored the east section of the island (Jon was a little ill, don't worry he's fine now!).


This little bridge connects Don Khon to a small island of the eastern bank.


More waterfalls!


Eve spotted this incredible tree. The core of the huge old trunk has completely rotted away leaving a third of the boundary wood left. Apparently, this is enough for a section of the large branch on the right to form a new dominant stem. Awesome!


Our time exploring the islands provided more concrete evidence for Laos' status as an overwhelmingly beautiful country.


Getting back into a speedy long-tail boat, we headed back to Ban Nakasang, back to Pakse (for the third time!) and from there to the Thai border.

Heading back into Thailand we caught a bus straight to Bangkok, which is where we currently are. Our plans have shifted slightly and we're heading south down the peninsula sooner than planned. After we leave this internet cafe we're heading for our bus to Trang!

Looking forward to white sand and turquoise water!

Lots of love,

Jon, Eve and Giraffery x

Trundles in Tad Lo.

Hello all!

After an overnight bus south from Vientiane we hopped off at a town called Pakse and straight into another bus that took us to Tad Lo. After a 2km walk to the village itself, we settled into a wonderful little bungalow overlooking the river.



Ours was one of the ones with the light brown bamboo roofs!


Upriver from the bungalow lies 'Tad Hang' waterfall. Although claimed somewhat by an enterprising resort owner, it's still beautiful.


Downriver is the village proper. The locals were all really friendly and the place had a very relaxed manner.


We arrived with enough time to explore the first set of waterfalls and pools, Tad Hang.



Good for a little dip, even if we were tired! It was a great way to get rid of the travel grime!


Mugs.


Distinctly satisfied with our new surroundings we watched the sunset.


Jon didn't manage to leave the hammock!


The next day we walked further up river and found the stunning 'Tad Lo' waterfall. The large pool in front was perfect for swimming. Going there every day to swim was a joy but finding it for the first time was even better!


Jon immediately started climbing on everything.


Eve discovered new realms of happiness.



Water babies!


The next day we took a small trail up past Tad Lo waterfall, to take a hike into the country-side.


Heading up river we moved towards a waterfall called 'Tad Suang'.


The walk provided us with a surprisingly diverse spectrum of environments.




Always appreciate local scale agriculture.


We eventually reached the waterfall but it seemed a little dried up. It wasn't much of a disappointment as the area underneath was really awesome to explore whilst the water levels were down.

Tad Lo was a very relaxed, friendly and cheap section of our Laos experience. The mixture of independent activity with beautiful surroundings was seemingly tailored to our needs. Many people seemed to arrive for the day on scooters, mooch around and leave again before evening set in. This gave actually staying there for a number of days somewhat of a unique, personal feel.

After five or so nights we headed back to Pakse in order to get another bus even further south. 

Our destination was the incredible 'Si Phan Don' aka 'The Four-Thousand Islands'.

See you all next time!

Eve, Giraffery and Jon x